Cobourg and Mary River: Mostly Fishing

Once upon a time in a land far far away, there was a lush tropical paradise surrounded by white beaches and sparkling blue waters bursting with fish, turtles, dolphins and dugongs. It was a place where the campgrounds were quiet and shady and no caravans were allowed. But most of all it was a place to fish, known as one of the best fishing spots in Australia.

We heard of this place and it was called 'Cobourg'. And very soon our new mantra was, "we must get to Cobourg". Rob's brother Andy had also heard of this place and our mantra became his. And so the wheels were set in motion, we applied for our permit three months in advance, which entitled us to 7 nights from the 17th July. We would be one of only 20 vehicles (at the most) in the national park at that time and the permit included our camping fees and access through Arnhem Land.

Cobourg (or the Cobourg Peninsula) is within the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, the most northern tip of the Northern Territory mainland and to access it by land we had to travel through Kakadu and then head north 300km through Arnhem Land. The drive through Arnhem Land is rough and slow (about 5 hours) but parts of it are beautiful and apart from the occasional land cruiser full of locals screaming past with a wave and a big grin, we pretty much had the drive to ourselves.

After five hours of bum-numbing corrugations, we were met by an extremely friendly and helpful ranger who gave us the low down on camping, crocs, fires, fishing, boating and exploring the area. We set off in the direction he had indicated towards the campgrounds. The campsites were nestled amongst the trees and so were very shady and private. In addition, each campsite had its own shade cloth, fireplace and a bin that was emptied every day. The toilets were clean and there was even a shower (all unexpected luxuries for a bush campsite).

We spent the next six days waking early to bird calls, reading, walking, cooking, exploring the beaches, learning bush tucker from one of the rangers and of course fishing. The only problem was, the fish weren't coming to the party. That's not saying we didn't catch anything, it's just that the boys were "keen to stretch their lines", as they put it. They did managed to catch a couple of trevally, a barracuda, some small mangrove jacks, a few decent sized queen fish and the crowning glory was a coral trout. We cooked it whole, wrapped in foil with loads of ginger, fresh coriander, lemon grass and lime. Coral trout has been declared by all present as one of our new favourite eating fish.

Although the isolation at Cobourg was a welcome change from the overcrowded national parks elsewhere and the scenery was spectacular, after several days of battling windy conditions (yet again) and less than forthcoming oceans, we decided it might be time to move on. Andy still had a couple of days left in the NT and the main purpose of his visit had been to catch some big fish, so we decided to head back to the BIllabongs and try our hand at some Barramundi and Saratoga fishing.

Before Andy arrived in Darwin we had spent several days at a place called Shady Camp on the lower Mary River. A barrage had been constructed there in the 1980s and had created the ideal Barramundi fishing environment. The campground was hot and fairly basic but our time spent on the boat on the BIllabong was spectacular. We got out on the water early in the morning when no one else was around and the water was so still it created a perfect mirror of the surrounding wetlands. It was amazing floating around the wetlands, lillypads (helipads, according to Jarvis) and expansive floodplains. We saw hundreds of birds including jabiru, egrets, brolgas, kites and sea eagles. A large buffalo was grazing near our fishing spot with an egret punched on his back and large salties lazed on the banks or watched us with just their eyes and nose poking above the still water. And we caught Barra. Several of them, in fact. Em caught her first one ever and then went on to catch two more. They were all under the legal size so they had to be carefully released but the hunt was fun and watching them stalk our lures and dance above the water as we reeled them in was magical.

Based on our experience at Shady Camp before Cobourg, we decided we would head back in the direction of the Mary River system again. This time we ended going to another spot further upstream called Corroboree Billabong. Rob and Andy had been there 12 years ago and said it was beautiful out on the water and a great fishing spot. On arriving at the boat ramp it appeared that not much had changed, including the croc warning signs. As we were unloading the boat, a fellow fisherman came up to us to warn us of the 5m crocs that inhabit the area. He was looking dubiously at our 3.7m tinny and our Jarvis sized croc bait. We assured him, we would be careful and Jarvis has been instructed on several occasion not to EVER put his hands outside the boat or go anywhere near the riverbanks whilst we are on the shore. Regardless, we decided it would be a good idea if Andy and Rob went out the first afternoon to check out the conditions whilst Em and Jarvis hung out at the campsite and played Lego.

Andy had come to Corroboree with a mission. Twelve years ago, he had almost managed to land a Saratoga with a fly rod, but alas the fish had got the best of him. This time he came prepared, with lures, flies and twelve additional years of fishing practice under his belt. On the first afternoon out, he landed two of the beasts. The grin was ear to ear. Not to be outdone, Rob also managed to land a whopper the following day. Although the Barra seemed to be in hiding, the Saratoga catches, dancing brolgas, giant crocodiles and amazing scenery made the trip to Corroboree Billabong and fabulous time.

Although the fishing wasn't perhaps up to the standard that we would have hoped, we had a fantastic time on the hunt. Plus, Andy and Rob seem to have the itch now and will certainly be back to the area during the wet season when the fishing is really happening. We have now sent Andy safely back to his family and on the same day, picked up our dear friends Tash and Adam. They are going to join us on our final NT adventure: Kakadu, Nitmuluk (Katherine Gorge) and Arnhem Land.

Darwin

We have spent two wonderful weeks in Darwin and will return several times before the month is out, using Darwin as our base while we explore Kakadu, Arnhem Land, Katherine Gorge and Cobourg. Darwin has left a lasting impression on us and we have gained an appreciation for this vibrant, tropical city in the far flung north of our country. The lifestyle in Darwin is intrinsically Australian but the tropical climate and nearby Asian neighbours have had a distinct impaction the way of life here. And it's great! People here seem genuinely happy and although Darwin is obviously a growing city, primarily due to mining and tourism, it still maintains a small town feel with a very relaxed vibe.

Darwin is perched on the end of a peninsula surrounded by turquoise waters. The bay is a bizarre colour and almost has a misty quality to it which is very alluring. However, the constant references to crocs and sharks ensures that the waters are admired from the land only. And Darwin definitely takes advantage of its location, it is well set up for relaxing and socialising on the waters edge. And we made sure we did it all, including fish and chips at Stokes Wharf, a cold beer at the Ski Club and enjoying a sunset and spicy noodles at the Mindle Market. Not to say that there wasn't plenty of swimming going on too. Any accommodation option worth its salt has a pool, and where we stayed was no exception. We spent many hours lazing under the umbrellas whilst Jarvis splashed around with the other kids in the lovely pool (the poolside bar was a bit of a plus too). We went to the free waterpark for a day of waterslides, crazy kids games and a picnic on the grass. And even in the centre of town there is somewhere to swim, with a wave pool and man made lagoon.

We arrived in Darwin during the school holidays and the place was awash with kids, although amazingly not too busy. There were free activities in town almost everyday and the caravan park offered at least four activities a day through its kids club. Jarvis loved every minute of it. He made biscuits, handled a baby croc, covered the pavement in chalk drawings, joined a bike club, raced toads and made pet rocks.

Just when we thought Darwin couldn't impress Jarvis any more, we lucked upon Darwin for Territory Day, aka Cracker Night. For one day a year anyone can buy and let off fireworks. And that they do (as did we). We were warned on several occasions that Territorians and Fireworks don't mix well and to watch out. It was certainly a night to be remembered. After an amazing fireworks display off Mindle Beach, we drove home to constant explosions going off in every direction. The crackers continued well into the night with at least six heard every second. It was wild, but fun. The whole city seemed to be happy.

We have been and will be spoilt rotten with visitors to Darwin. Ange arrived during our second week in town and perused the local attractions with us (and got her much needed dose of sunshine after coming directly from a Melbourne winter). Jarvis was delighted to have someone sit in the backseat with him and when we were out he kept Ange's hand firmly in his for almost the entire time she was here. But no one was happier to see Ange than Em. To make up for lost time over the last year, they nattered late into the evenings and spent many hours discussing everything and nothing by the pool.

We also caught up with some of Em's school friends, Shanti and Amy for a wonderful evening at the Darwin Ski Club. Rob's brother Andy is also joining us tomorrow for a week of fishing in Cobourg. And Tash and Adam will be arriving later in the month to explore Kakadu, Katherine Gorge and Arnhem Land with us. 

The highlight of Darwin for us was definitely the markets. Darwin has the perfect climate for tropical produce which can be bought at any one of the many weekend morning markets and there is no better way to finish the day than sitting on the beach at Mindle Markets (once you've finally decided what to eat) and watching the sun go down. Obviously most of Darwin agrees because not once but twice a week, half of the city descends on Mindle Beach with their chairs, tables, rugs and kids to settle under the coconut palms and enjoy the dozens of fresh food options on offer. The food selection is simply amazing including Thai, Chinese, Sri Lankan, Indian, Malasian, Greek, 'Outback Aussie', Fish and Chips, Crepes, Brazilian, Italian and more! Once a selection has been made and the sun has set, the local street performers come into their own and the place comes alive with fire dancing, acrobatics, musicians, whip cracking and dancing. We made Mindle Markets a regular destination during our Darwin stay, totalling six visits (so far). Although, Mindle Markets is simply amazing, we also thoroughly enjoyed our Saturday mornings at Parap local markets too. The locals can't seem to get through the weekend without their Saturday morning laksa and the array of fresh and cheap fruit and vegetables on offer kept us well stocked for our time in Darwin and for our adventures beyond the city limits.

During our brief return visits to Darwin over the coming weeks we will mostly be picking up and dropping friends at the airport, stocking up on supplies and having a shower, but we are hoping to squeeze in a couple of laksas at the markets and maybe an icy cold beer at The Tap. So it is not a final farewell, but certainly the end of our rest period and the next session of travelling has begun. 

Green Paw Paw Salad (Som Tam)

I love green paw paw salad. Unfortunately, it is not that easy to get my hand on green paw paw in Sydney. So the paw paw tree simply laden with green paw paws right next to our campsite at Daly River, was too much of a gift to ignore. We whipped up a salad based on what we had available, but you can basically use anything you want. In addition, I have been told that grated carrot or zucchini can be used instead of paw paw if paw paw is not available. I wanted to serve this salad with some coconut crusted barramundi, but unfortunately the fishing conditions didn't allow for this so we made a panang curry with sweet potato, asian spinach and green beans.

Ingredients (serves 3)

• quarter to a half of a green paw paw (skinned and seeded). Remaining paw paw will last several days in the fridge if wrapped in glad wrap. 
• half a red capsicum
• two spring onions
• one cucumber
• one carrot
• a bunch of coriander
• half a bunch of mint
• large red chilli
• Juice of one lime
• soy sauce
• fish sauce (optional)
• 1 teaspoon of sugar
• lemon grass

Method

Grate the paw paw and place in a bowl, sprinkle generously with salt, cover with glad wrap and put aside for 15 minutes. Then squeeze out excess liquid. This step is optional, you can simply just grate and use.

Thinly slice the capsicum and spring onions. Cut the cucumber into quarters lengthways then slice (chunky or thin depending on your taste). Peel and grate the carrot. Coarsely chop the coriander and mint (I used most of the coriander stalks in the curry). Thinly slice the chills (the amount and whether you use the seeds is up to you, we use one seeded chilli to suit Jarvis' taste and then add a little extra chilli onto mine and Rob's plates). Combine all of these ingredients with the paw paw in a large bowl.

Combine lime juice, about 2 teaspoons of soy, a dash of fish sauce and sugar in a cup and stir. Crush lemon grass in a mortar and pestle or use lemon grass paste, add about half a teaspoon to dressing mixture and stir to combine. Vary the quantities to suit your taste. You can also add a little or a lot of finely dices or crushed hot chilli.

Dress the salad just before serving and add crushed peanuts and/or bean shoots on top (if wanted).

Daly River and Litchfield National Park

We left WA in kind of a whirl wind rush and kind of kept going until we hit Katherine. We didn't really intend to do it like that, but once we had shopped, got camper mended and showered there didn't seem like much else left for us to do in Kununurra. So we packed up and left. We stopped in at Lake Argyle but apart from marvelling at the shear enormity of Australia's largest artificial lake, we didn't really feel like staying there. So on we went. We had also planned to stop at Greggories National Park and Flora River Nature Reserve, but again, we didn't really feel compelled to hang out there. So apart from a one night stop at a road side camp and a lovely meandering drive through the Victoria River Valley, we dashed straight across the Katherine.

We stayed at a lovely old homestead on the outskirts of town, where ginormous ducks waddled around and a freshwater crocodile lived in the ornamental lake. We did some shopping, acquired some more fishing gear and had a look around town. But no sooner had the dust begun to settle, we were on the road again. This time headed for the infamous Barramundi fishing area of the Daly River.

We set up camp at Banyan Farm, a mango farm turned holiday accommodation. The place was a little bit run down but we were keen to get away from the crowds so it suited us perfectly. The mango, coconut, lime and paw paw trees rambling across the property and local peacocks just added to the charm. We were even allowed to harvest some of the crops and so we munched on several coconuts, washed our hair with the coconut milk and whipped up a green paw paw salad for dinner (this was supposed to have gone with some coconut encrusted barramundi, but as you will see, this wasn't to be).

After our mad dash from WA to NT, a rest in a gorgeous tropical setting was perfect. Unfortunately, the fishing conditions were not. We woke on our first morning to howling wind. Not enough to ruin our camping but strong enough to make fishing a chore. We battled the wind on one occasion and got several hours on the river. It is a beautiful, huge river. We saw lots of birds, including a couple of Jabiru and dozens of saltwater crocodiles. They are menacing looking creatures, especially when you are trying to untangle your lure from a snag only a few feet away from one (this happened a few more times than it should have). The salties may have added to our hesitation to go out fishing again, but mostly it was the persistent wind which wasn't forecast to let up for another week. So after three nights, we admitted defeat and decided to move on.

We packed up and stopped in at the nearby Merrepen Aboriginal Community Arts Centre and spent a lovely morning perusing some amazing artworks. However, the day slowly went downhill from here. We had hoped to enter Litchfield National Park from the south via a 4WD track. Unfortunately, when we got to the turnoff there was a locked gate, so we had to take the much longer and more boring route via the highway. Not 20 kilometres down the road, we heard an almighty 'bang' and Big Red started to wobble about the road. We had blown a tyre on the camper, completely exploded a tyre is probably a more apt description. Luckily man-o-man Rob came to the rescue and he had the tyre changed and us back on the road in no time. But not before he noticed that we had acquired a small hole in our camper water storage tank and were slowly losing our precious drinking water. Due to the fact that we couldn't get onto the 4WD track mentioned earlier and our tendency to try and stay off highways, we decided (ok, Emma decided) to take a 'short cut' she had seen on the map. Suffice to say, we got lost. It is actually the first time we've been properly lost on this trip. There was no one around to ask directions from and so we just kept trying different roads (most of which just ended) until we found our way. We did manage to stop off at a lovely waterfall for lunch and we did  get to our campsite by sunset and the campsite was caravan free due to the tricky 4WD access. So as we settled in by the fire with a bowl of pasta and a cold beer, we decided the day wasn't a complete disaster.

Litchfield National Park is simply fabulous. For such a small area, it holds an amazing range of natural wonders. Most of the park is connected by sealed roads and unless you want to, you don't need to walk vast distances to see most of what the park has to offer. Admittedly, due to the easy access and the close proximity to Darwin, it does get very busy but we still had a wonderful day walking through rainforest, admiring waterfalls, swimming in waterholes and wondering at the magnetic termite mounds and the lost city stone formations.

It had now been a month since we left behind the bright lights of Broome and almost three months since we'd enjoyed the hustle and bustle of a big cit (Perth). As such, we were very excited about getting to Darwin. So after a short but lovely stay in Litchfield, we headed straight for the big smoke.