Eyre Peninsula

Since we left Sydney we have been looking forward to getting to Coffin Bay. Rob remembered it as a fishing mecca from his last trip and I had seen pictures of deserted white beaches so we both had our reasons for seeing it as one of the key destinations of the trip. Despite our anticipation we were determined not to rush through the rest of the Eyre Peninsula in our eagerness to get to Coffin Bay. That said, the east coast of the peninsula didn't really have a whole lot to offer, that combined with some rainy days meant that we only spent a short stay in a cute little fishing town; Cowell. It was a pleasant enough stay, with walks along the fishing jetty and a stay in a caravan park on the foreshore. But it wasn't really anything spectacular and we weren't able to get the boat in the water so we decided to head straight down to the tip of the peninsula, close to Coffin Bay and stay in the Lincoln National Park.

Port Lincoln (just outside the National Park) is famous for its tuna fishing but unfortunately tuna is not in season at the moment so we didn't sample the local speciality. However, we set ourselves up at a recommended fishing spot in the National Park called September Beach to see what other tasty delights we could pull from the sea. The campsite was just behind the dunes and the beach was protected with white sand and turquoise water. You get the idea, it was heaven. We spent the next 6 days fishing, lying on the beach, splashing (but not swimming) in the cold southern waters, going exploring in the national park and generally enjoying the fact that we didn't have to pack up and move on for a few days at least. We met another young family who were camped right near us, although they had 4 kids! It was nice to meet some other people who weren't grey nomads for a change and as it turns out they are headed around Australia too so I am sure we will bump into them along the way. Rob's fishing efforts didn't go to waste with a couple of Australian Salmon (which got thrown back) and a nice big squid which ended up in the frying pan.

1) An after dinner fish became an evening ritual at September Beach. 2) Wanna - it's amazing how one park of the NP can be so calm and protected and just round the corner you almost get blown off the cliff, beautiful though. 3) September Beach. 4) Squid straight from the ocean to our tummies.

A conveniently placed park bench right in front of our campsite. One of my favourite moments was sitting here having custard after dinner with Jarvis, whilst watching Rob fishing on the beach below.

After such a lovely time at Lincoln National Park we didn't go very far (60km) and we arrived finally in Coffin Bay. We stayed in the caravan park for 2 nights to take advantage of the showers and laundry but didn't get a great feel for the area as the weather had turned and the rain and cold had set in. However, undeterred we went into Coffin Bay National Park and followed a 4WD track into the guts of the park to a campsite called Black Springs. As we arrived the sun poked it head out and we found our anticipation in reaching Coffin Bay was definitely not in vain. The beach at the campsite was gorgeous, the sand was just as white as it seemed in the photos and the bay stretched out ready for us to explore. We didn't waste any time and put the boat straight in the water and headed off to see what the bay had to offer. We found little secluded beaches, caves (dragon caves according to Jarvis), pristine bush and tropical looking waters. We chose a beach to land on (later dubbed Jarvis Beach) and had a picnic lunch while Rob fished. The next 5 days were a mixture of more of the same, combined with some days cuddled up in the camper cooking and reading to avoid the rain. Rob's fishing luck continued and we gobbled up a couple of Australian Salmon cooked whole on the fire. The highlight of our stay was definitely the dolphins. We were picnicking and fishing on a deserted beach when a pod of more than a dozen dolphins swam by. They came right into the shore to check us out and we walked out to them (about 5 metres away). We then jumped into the boat to follow them (Rob was hoping to catch some of the fish they appeared to be herding). They weren't scared of the boat at all, in fact they were swimming all around us and playing in the bow wake. It was totally magical.

1) Black Springs Beach in Coffin Bay NP. 2) Jarvis playing on the beach. 3) Rob's catch of the day. 4) Rob and Jarvis exploring the beach during one of the colder days. 

Daddy won't take me fishing!!

The constantly changing weather was kind of getting a bit irritating (hot and sunny one moment and then the wind blows and it's freezing and raining all within a couple of hours), so we decided to start making our way up to the inevitable and slightly daunting Nullarbor crossing. Our journey up the west coast of the Eyre Peninsula was via some beautiful beaches and cute towns, but we basically kept moving. A highlight for Jarvis was a lunch stop at an out of the way beach called Farm Beach that Rob had stayed at on his last trip. The main reason for revisiting the beach was that Rob remembered that there were dozens of tractors at the beach which the locals used to tow their boats in and out of the water with. Jarvis has developed a complete infatuation with tractors since his stay in Deniliquin (all tractors are apparently "like Uncle Andy's"). So we decided to take him there. Luckily the tractors were still there, dozens of them. Jarvis was in seventh heaven. Just near Farm Beach is the beach where the film Gallipoli was filmed, it is spectacular and has a tricky 4WD access and a steep climb down to the beach, this keeps a lot of tourists away so we had the place to ourselves. We also had some overnight stays in Elliston and Streaky Bay. Both really gorgeous towns but pretty windy so after some quick fishing we kept moving. Although, our stay in Elliston was fruitful thanks to the ginormous squid that the our neighbouring campers gave to us. Squid is fast becoming one of Jarvis' favourites so he was particular excited. Using the gift squid, we recreated the Thai squid salad that Adam had made for us in Bermagui and ate it on the beach for dinner. I'll post the recipe separately, it is really yummy so worth sharing.

1) Riding the tractors at Farm Beach. 2) Gallipoli Beach.

Jarvis found these strange fur ball like things on the beaches. 

Fishing on Elliston Jetty at sunset.

We are camped in Streaky Bay tonight and will be heading onto the Nullarbor tomorrow. We hope to do it over two nights, but we'll see. So I guess this is goodbye to South Australia. I can't even begin to tell you how fantastic our time in this state has been. We have severely undervalued SA in the past and won't make the mistake again. The people have been so friendly and helpful, the sights of both inland and coastal areas have been spectacular and to top it all off, even the smallest towns seem to rustle up a great cafe, winery or some other gastronomic delight, the South Australians certainly take their food and wine seriously. But I think we're going to miss the most the constant flow of Coopers available here in SA, Emu Bitter here we come.