Southern Forests

Most of the region between Albany and Margaret River is known as the Southern Forests. It is full of old growth Karri and Jarrah Forests, rivers, waterfalls and amazing coastline. We camped in some spectacular places but the highlight of our 4 day journey through the forests was simply the driving. The roads wind through the heart of the forests and there are little side trips everywhere which take you along dirt tracks into untouched areas.

The most popular destination in the region is probably Denmark, however, as Denmark is only 50km from Albany and camping is limited around there we decided to pass straight through. Instead, we spent our first night in the Southern Forests at a place called Fernbrook Falls on a river right in the depths of the national park. It was a lovely change from the coastal campsites we have been frequenting lately. The following day we did the very touristy but amazing treetop walk before heading down to the coast once again.

We had intended to stay that night in a tiny little settlement within the national park called Windy Harbour. The settlement was established after the great depression and there are now over 200 "beach shacks" on lease arrangements. It is very cute and the campground looked nice, but when we arrived we were told about a great camping site along a 4WD to the east of Windy Harbour so we set out along the very soft sandy track for a slow journey along the coast. We finally came across a deserted campground which consisted of little tracks joining together simple campsites shaded by peppermint trees. As we had the place to ourselves we decided to look at all of the sites to make sure we got the best one. Just when we thought we had gone as far as we could, we stumbled upon a little private hut overlooking the river mouth. There was a sign on the door inviting the public to make use of the hut but to leave it tidy and replace anything they used. Such amazing generosity. The hut was very simple and had obviously seen better days, but the deck provided the most sublime place to sit and have an afternoon beverage or a meal. Which is exactly what we did.

We briefly brought ourselves out of isolation to visit the Gloucester Tree, a 72m high karri tree which is the world's tallest fire lookout tree. Em had climbed the tree when she was 5 but even so, it was a bit too much of an ask for little Jarvis. So Rob made the climb on his own while Em and Jarvis waited at the bottom. 

1 - Jarvis attempting the first few rungs. 2 - Rob on his way up, barefoot!

3 - Jarvis waiting diligently at the bottom of the tree for his dad.

With Rob's slightly sore legs, we headed again into the isolation of the coastal national park. We found ourselves faced again with a very soft sandy road. This time simply letting the tires down didn't get Big Red moving so we had to get out the winch for the very first time. Once out of trouble, we followed the narrow windy track and discovered another deserted campsite (Jasper Beach), with a small tin roof shelter and fire pit. According to the graffiti around the place, the campsite served as a popular fishing spot in the fishing season. Luckily we had it to ourselves for the night.

The 4WD book described the road out as being for experienced 4 wheel drivers only, so we were a little worried about how long it would take to get back to the main road especially as we were towing the very heaving camper trailer with a boat on top. As such, we got going early but soon found that our fears were not unfounded. As we slowly inched our way along the coast, the road got steeper, the sand softer and the day hotter. We hadn't seen another car since we left the main road and the track did not appear to be used frequently, we were feeling a little alone and not only a little intimidated by the challenge the road was posing. Finally a steep hill with a bend was too much for Big Red and she started to sink into the sand. We found some small trees which only just provided the anchorage we needed for the winch. We slowly winched our way up the hill bit by bit. Only to find another hill beyond that. Thankfully we didn't need the winch again but it was slow going. Then just as we thought we were home free at the turn off inland (and hopefully onto less sandy ground) we found a gate across the road. With no possibility of turning back (we were hot and tired and it would have taken until dark to go back) we opened the (unlocked) gate and continued on..... how bad could it be? The road turned out to be flooded at several locations. But thankfully due to Big Red's snorkel and the waterproof camper we made it through. Although it was an ordeal, it was actually a lot of fun and we were very proud of ourselves. And despite the fact that Rob really did do most of the work, high fives were delivered all round.

Where did the road go?

But Big Red made it through regardless

We finally made it to the main road, apparently if we'd come in this way we'd have known that the road was closed.

As we neared Margaret River we passed several back burning operations, which seemed a little odd considering the heat of the day and predicted winds. There was a very large plume of smoke to the north but there were other people already camped in the national park and the staff back burning had not mentioned any danger so we set up for the night just south of Margaret River in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP. The sky did turn red with smoke over the course of the afternoon but the campsite was so idyllic it was hard to imagine the devastation going on just kilometres from where we were. We didn't get the full picture of what was going on till we got to Margaret River the next day. But this post was titled "Southern Forests", not "Margaret River", so the rest of the story will have to wait till the next post.....

Rob and Jarvis blissed out in the forest, completely unaware of the fires blazing to the north.